Prolific driver on windows 8.1

saya punya beberapa kabel programming radio menggunakan chipset prolific. Sebagian kabel usb prolific bisa terbaca dan bekerja normal, tetapi ada beberapa juga yang tidak terbaca.  ternyata driver terbaru dari prolific tidak bisa mengenali sebagian chip prolific, karena sebenarnya chipset prolific terdiri dari berbagai jenis/macam chip.  chip prolific model lama tidak bisa dikenali oleh driver terbaru, maka untuk chip prolific lama harus menggunakan driver lama pula. yang saya gunakan adalah driver prolific versi 3.3.10.140 tahun 2009 .

menurut release note driver prolific bahwa windows 8 tidak support chip HXA/XA , tetapi jangan kuatir, gunakan saja driver lama maka chip akan bekerja normal.

ini menurut release note:
NOTE:
      - Windows 8 is NOT supported in HXA/XA chip versions (will show yellow mark Error Code 10).

setelah menggunakan driver versi lama maka akan terdetek sbb:

 

cara mengganti driver adalah sbb:

 

 

this is the result:

Mengganti kapasitor icom R7000

Bila R7000 receive nya kurang peka (budeg) , kemudian ada dengung di audio, itu tandanya kapasitor sudah mulai kering. karena ini adalah radio lama ,  umurnya makin sepuh, sehungga fungsi-fungsi komponen terutama kapasitor elektrolit semakin menurun.

Kapasitor yang perlu diganti adalah yang terkait dengan power supply dan audio kopling. jumlahnya ada 120 buah.

Daftar Kapasitor:

Ukuran	Jumlah
.47uf 50V	14
.47uf 50V BP	2
100uf 16V	7
100uf 25V	4
10uf 16V	35
10uf 16V 7mm	3
1uf 50V	5
2.2uf 50V	2
2.2uf 6.3V 7mm	1
220uf 10V	4
22uf 10V	5
22uf 25V	1
22uf 6.3V 7mm	1
3.3uf 50V	4
33uf 16V	3
4.7uf 25V 7mm	1
4.7uf 50V	5
4700uf 35V	2
470uf 16V	7
47uf 16V	12
47uf 6.3/10V 7mm	2
Jumlah	120

ICOM IC-R7000 Radio Electrolytic Capacitor Overhaul

From Frank
frolektrics electronics notes & projects

 

I have recently replaced all the electrolytics my ICOM IC R-7000 VHF/UHF receiver.

The receivers and transceivers of this ICOM radio series are getting on a bit in age. They were manufactured in the early eighties and now weird faults are beginning to show themselves as the electrolytic capacitors dry out and lose capacity and increase esr.

If you have an R7000 that…

• Never has had an overhaul
• Suffers a decrease in sensitivity and increase in noise
• VFD display digits blinking/dim/missing

Then there’s a good chance that your radio needs some new caps and a bit of TLC

The best way to tackle the overhaul is to take the “shotgun” approach and replace all of the electro’s in one hit. This is a lot of work but the job can be easily done providing your well prepared. Actually this statement is true for most things in life. It took me 10Hrs all up to do it.

The first thing you’ll need to do is acquire all the capacitors for the job. There’s 114 of them to replace and you can get the specs from the IC-R7000 service manual (Off the web – do a Google search for it if you haven’t got it).

I took the easy route and got a kit of capacitors from the ve3pvs web store on eBay. I recommend purchasing the kit as for $40 it will save you a lot of list writing, spec comparing and running around. Here is a photo of the kit shown left.

Tools that are also essential for the job include a temperature controlled soldering station and a vacuum desoldering tool. I cannot stress the importance of having a proper de-soldering tool as solder-wick just won’t cut it over the long haul with this job. You will get fatigued and start making silly mistakes like dwelling too long with heat over the one spot or wiping the solder-wick with too much pressure laterally across the PCB. Both scenarios are likely to cause lifting of some of the tracks. The PCB is single sided phenolic and the pcb trace adhesive isn’t as good as contemporary fibreglass boards. To re-iterate, beg, borrow or steal a proper DE-SOLDERING TOOL (I was lucky enough to be able to borrow one from work over the Christmas break).

One last thing to be thought of is the method of performing this job. You will need a method that will enable to pick up from where you left off during interruptions to the work. I have found that using a list that orders capacitors by pcb will allow one to fold out a pcb from the chassis of the radio and strike the capacitors one by one off the list as you replace them. I also found that marking the tops of new capacitors with a black texta also aids in identifying the ones that are yet to be replaced on the pcb.

Here is the strikeout list I made up in PDF form -> R7000ElectroChangeoutChecklist

In short, this is the process…

1. Fold out a pcb from the wiring harness to work on
2. Change a capacitor
3. Strike off the list and mark the top of the cap in black
4. Goto step two until all the caps for that board are changed
5. Goto step one until all the boards have been worked on

I found that a couple of the caps have been mounted on the solder side of the board (late manufacturing revision?). And that the capacitors for the InfraRed pcb mounted on the front panel must be mounted on the reverse side of the board as the ones they replace are much smaller.

I hope I have made it easier for anyone taking on this overhaul job in the future and that you get many more years of service from the receiver.

ICOM IC-R7000 Radio tuning wheel only tunes down

From Frank
frolektrics electronics notes & projects

When I bought my second hand R7000, it also came with a few problems thrown in for free. Most were fixed by replacing all the electro’s but by far the most annoying was the fact that the radio only tuned down when using the encoder wheel!

The encoder itself puts out an I-Q signal, that is to say an “In phase” signal that oscillates between logic high and low as the tuning encoder wheel is turned, and a “Quadrature” signal that does the same but is offset 90 degrees with respect to the in phase signal (why is it called Quadrature? – think of a square, 4 * 90 degree corners).

Now normally, you would have the I-Q signal going straight to the microprocessor within the radio to effect tuning. The frequency of the I or Q would determine tuning speed, and the order of the IQ edges would determine direction. I.e If I is before q then tune down – else tune up.

The ICOM engineers had different ideas however. They wrote the MCU code such that it accepts a Step & Direction signal from the encoder rather than I&Q. Dunno why, it may save a few program cycles – you only have to interrupt on the step signal, then read the direction signal to determine which way to tune.

The fallout from this design decision is that now some glue logic must be implemented between the IQ output of the tuning encoder and the Step-Direction input of the MCU.

As my radio only tuned down, the best place to look for a fault would be around this glue logic – as you can get at the IQ signal from the encoder and the STEP-DIRECTION to the MCU all in one spot. I I have pasted in the relavent snippet of the logic board below.

I & Q signals from the encoder come in on IC4 pins 13 & 8 respectively. The STEP output to the MCU comes out from the right hand side of C9. And finally the direction output of the MCU comes out from pin11 of IC5.

IC5 implements a D-Flip Flop (the crossed gates of IC5d & IC5a is a classic DIY S/R flip-flop) and so if say the order of the IQ edges is I-Q I-Q then ones are clocked through to pin 11 and the MCU counts step pulses up. If the order of the IQ edges is the other way, Q-I Q-,I then zeroes are clocked through to pin 11 and the MCU counts step pulses down.

On my radio Pin11 was always low no matter which way I turned the wheel, thereby telling the MCU to only tune down!

The fix was easy in the end and just involved the replacement of a $2 part on the logic board, IC5 – A CMOS series quad NAND gate 4011.

Note in this shot, the new IC5 installed on a good quality machined pin IC socket. You could solder it directly onto the board if you wish, but if you do use an IC socket – make sure it is a good quality machined pin type and not one of those cheapie dual wipers, which have a tendancy to induce chip creep as the temperature cycles. This radio was a work of art at the time when it was made and should be respected.

I hope that this article may be of use in your R7000 repair endeavours.

Cheers